April 6, 2008
Last night we had our first get together with the little community of young, awesome, gringa expats living in Santiago. Of course the husbands tagged along too.
It was one of those nights where everything just sort of clicks. You know what I mean…when the group chemistry is just so good and there’s never an awkward silence or worrying about where to go and what to do next. The first part of the get together was up on our apartment building’s roof top pool/party/asado area. Since we were sort of hosting I was freaking out a little bit beforehand. Having people over who don’t all know each other can be stressful because if they don’t get along I feel responsible and I feel like I have to facilitate conversation between them, but last night definitely wasn’t like that.
So the original plan was to meet up at our place and then move the party on over to Opera Catedral. I had the brilliant idea to go to that bar because I saw it on the Travel Channel as one of the top 5 bars in all of Latin America (#2, I believe). Well, at 11:22pm we remembered that there’s no cover only until midnight. After that men pay approximately $12 dollars and women pay around $8. That’s way too much, especially when it doesn’t even include a drink, so we tried to wrangle the whole big group off the roof and outside to go get a taxi to the bar, hoping to make it in time and not have to pay. Of course, with a group of about 15 people, it’s not easy getting everyone to move. First we gathered up everything on the roof and brought it down to our apartment. Then it seemed like every single person at the party had to go to the bathroom. Finally at 11:56pm we were outside hailing a cab and climbing on in.
Yes! We were pretty sure we were going to make it…until we realized none of us knew the exact address or how to get there. Also, the cab driver thought he knew what we were talking about, but he didn’t seem very sure of himself. His response when we asked him about it was, “Yaaaaa, I thiiiiiink it’s on the corner of Merced….maaaaybe.” Not very confidence inspiring. But, since we didn’t know either, we just went with the cabbies instinct. He got us there at 11:59pm, we ran in, didn’t have to pay, and didn’t turn into pumpkins either.
Entering the bar we were greeted with a rather shocking sight…fashionably dressed Chileans! Under normal circumstances at any bar in all of Santiago you can spot at least one of the following:
- A mullet
- Several fanny packs
- A female mullet
- Cameltoes
- Severe muffin top
- Random rat’s tails coming out from any given point on a man’s head, behind the ear, middle of the back of the skull, wherever.
- MC Hammer pants
- Tight fake satin pants, see picture below. Chilean women LOVE these pants.
Opera Catedral is obviously frequented by cuicos, which is Chilean for rich, snobby, upper class. I didn’t see a single cameltoe, because rich girls can probably afford to go to other countries to find clothes that fit.
Cameltoe talk aside, the bar was packed when we walked in. We checked out the upper and lower area and there was no place to sit. Our big group hovered next to the bar for a little while but it was hot and the music was a little too loud. We made the move to their upstairs outdoor patio. Apparently there was a waiting list for tables that I didn’t know about, but literally right as we walked up a large group of people were getting up to leave. I just sat down and we grabbed the table. Nobody said anything about a waiting list until much later in the night.
Anyways, even though we had a great night, I definitely don’t think it deserves the distinction of being one of the best bars in Latin America. I was definitely disappointed. I mean, if a place is on the Travel Channel, wouldn’t you think there’d be something special about it? I was expecting the chairs to be made out of gold and to see famous Chilean people or something. And at the very least I was expecting not to hear crappy 80’s music and get crappy service like at every other bar in this country. But, Opera Catedral was a let down. The waiter ignored us for a good 20 minutes before taking our order. We eventually had to hunt him down and forced him to take our order…in a very polite and nice way I might add.
And the music, oh the music. Let’s just say that amongst other classics, we were treated to Billie Jean, Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This) and so many more oldies but goodies. Of all the crappy music that’s imported from the U.S. I just don’t understand why every single bar in this country refuses to at least play the new crappy music in English, or even new crappy music in Spanish. Whatever, I’m not picky, I’m just sick of always hearing the same stuff everywhere. I can only take Welcome to the Jungle so many times in one lifetime.
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- If you don't try and keep up, you just sound like yourself, which should sound like the moment. ~Grace Jones.
- I have no competition and no rivals. Everybody's got their own pace, their own trip. I don't try to keep up. ~Grace Jones, cont'd.
- @inosherry, I can't say I am very wizzardy but I can certainly try!
- 4am and I'm not tired. But 7:30am is going to come quick. At least I got lots of editing done!
- @markdubya, it might be 2010 but we're definitely still in Michigan. Speaking of. I'm here. Let's hang!
- Planning a baby shower for my future sister in law. This is definitely NOT my forte.
when i was here a couple of years ago I never understood the 80s music in all the bars and now that I am back, I’m still confused. It seems like it is either reggaetone or 80s…at least there are some salsa bars in valpo to enjoy. still wouldn’t mind finding a bar playing a different decade
Comment by Rook — April 6, 2008 @ 8:55 pm
Loving the brackets around ‘Are Made Of This’! Such attention to detail! Aside from this, I actually feel envious that I couldn’t join you all. XXX
Comment by Raybelles — April 7, 2008 @ 2:47 am
sounds like you gals have a blast over there, i love my expat americanitas group here. Those silky pants are something else, they look like p.j.´s!!!! That´s funny that you guys just went to that bar that was featured on the travel channel, because just thursday night, us americanitas in Seville went to a bar also featured on the travel channel (there are pics in Sarita´s blog). Un beso, Tiffany
Comment by Bluestreak — April 7, 2008 @ 8:33 am
No camel toe pictures? LOL.
Comment by Mexico Way — April 7, 2008 @ 9:05 am
Maybe it was the fact that there were no camel toes, mullets, rat tails, etc that made it on the Travel Channels list?
All of those things go so well with ’80’s music though! The only things missing are enormous shoulder pads.
Comment by Reb — April 7, 2008 @ 11:51 am
So fun! You are officially the queen of all gringas in Chile. No way are we waiting another month to do something again
Comment by Emily — April 7, 2008 @ 1:04 pm
I loved this post and this blog.
Have a nice day
Comment by david santos — April 7, 2008 @ 2:08 pm
Hiya, funny cos I was there on Tuesday night last week and it was packed! The service was very friendly but really slow. I don’t know if the same happened to you but it took forever to get the change after we paid the bill, so in the end we jut left, leaving a tip. Cheeky bastards.
The italian selection of cured meats was good but rather expensive. Can’t they just get Chilean stuff, more affordable? Some of those silly girls from TV were around. The really snobbish celebrities live around the Bellas Artes/Parque Forestal area (Nicole one of them, if you don’t know her don’t worry cos nobody does but me). For them the Barrio Alto is so passé. Well, it is soulless.
And about the 80s music, I have a theory. We were robbed that decade, so now we want it back. Even worse, the government sort of encouraged English music so people wouldn’t understand a thing, and that was better than protest songs. For the government ‘Sweet dreams (are made of this, hehe)’ was better than Adiós general. So listening to 80s classics brings back memories of those days but now finally we’re living a little. It’s just the nostalgia. Although I’m 31 now and the 80s weren’t quite my teenage years, I do have some vivid memories and I can see why people like it.
I like your writing style, good blog.
Comment by Carlos — April 7, 2008 @ 3:09 pm
Sounds like a great time! Your fashion descriptions crack me up. They aren’t exactly the same here, but there are so many fashion no-nos around. The uni-tard is very popular!!
Comment by Lori - Blondie in Brazil — April 8, 2008 @ 11:57 am
About 80 ’s music I have another theory: The people who has de money to go out to drink and eat in these fancy bars are around 30-40 years old…and that music bring them memories from their teenegar years or university years when they were young and free. So they go there to have a good time listening to this music and forget about work,children and adult life issues. Claudia
Comment by Anonymous — April 8, 2008 @ 1:32 pm
Hey Claudia, thanks for stopping by. That might be true if the 80’s music were just at fancy bars…but it’s not…they are constantly playing 80’s music on the radio, and in the picadas too.
Comment by Mamacita Chilena — April 8, 2008 @ 1:34 pm
I had such a good time. Fun to meet you all. Thanks for organizing, Mamacita. I’m looking forward to hanging out with everyone in the future.
When we were arriving to Cathedral on Saturday I looked at my cell phone and it was 11:59pm. And I guess I was the only one who knew how to get there but I was in the second taxi so we just followed you guys. jejeje. But your taxi driver got it right.
I must say though, I like 80s music. It never gets old to me, though I didn’t listen to a lot of it in the 80s. And fanny packs just have never gone out of style here. I think it has to do with the amount of flaites (sketchy people who want to rob you). They’ve even stream-lined the fanny-pack, kind of made it their own. Also have you noticed how the high school girls still wear leg warmers? I totally bought some when I was a high school exchange student here. I still use them.
Comment by Maeskizzle — April 9, 2008 @ 12:46 pm
I strongly suspect that anything featured on the Travel Channel is going to be selected for its Americana qualities… If you’ve traveled to exotic Chile from middle (or even most) America and you’re looking for a night on the town you probably don’t wanna hang out where real authentic Chileans hang out because it will be weird and foreign and the water will probably cause horrible intestinal issues… Fake satin pants and bad 80’s pop are the comfort food of environment for the new generation of jet-setters and Travel Channel must know their demographic; the poor service probably stems from the staff having to endure night after night of this hellish place…
Comment by Blaark — April 9, 2008 @ 9:42 pm
Honestly i don’t know why people in Chile adore 80’s music. Personally, i hate it, always i hated it, when i was a child i hated it too. Now i listen only electronic music (chill out, deep house and so on). i think the “Age theory” is the best explanation to understand why the most places play 80’s music, in addition you must consider people are not listening new “anglo music”, i don’t know why, it isn’t a reference, like it was in the 80’s, young people listen reggeaton, for example, or that kind of music dedicated only for urban tribes (postmodern romanticism for emos and so on). In addtion, i think new generations are not deeply connected with their music like 80’s generation, look: in the military government music was the only one entertainment for many of us, now young people has internet, DVD, Play station an many other funny things, so music is just one of these things.
Comment by Psicometodos — April 13, 2008 @ 9:21 am
cameltoe is a huge problem down here in santiago. i was explaining that to my gf a few weeks ago that for every 20 women – age 25-55 – in santiago, 5 have cameltoes. she was laughing as we went out toe watching.
Comment by peter — April 14, 2008 @ 9:44 am