February 16, 2010
Anita and Alan just got back from their honeymoon in the South of Chile. They sent me the sweetest email EVER. It ended with me in tears, sniffing, Seba, I love our job sooooooooo much!
One of the things this email said was that they were sad to come back to Santiago, back to reality, because they didn’t want everything to be over. So they had saved looking at their pictures for last. I feel the same way. The entire trip to Chiloe was magical. That whole place is magical! So I wanted to save something for later too. Well, it’s officially later and these are photos of the Curanto that Alan and Anita’s family hosted for the wedding guests the day after.
If you have never been to a Curanto before (GO!) let me give a quick run down of what happens. Fresh seafood is collected along the beach — shellfish, mussels, oysters, clams, barnacles, etc. Anything edible that the low tide leaves washed up was put into giant sacks that same morning. Then, the guys dug a giant hole in the ground. I would guess it was around 4 meters long, 1.5 meters wide and maybe 1 meter dip. BIG. Lots of sweat goes into making a Curanto hole. Once it’s done, the next stop is a bonfire. Then rocks are piled on top of the fire to heat them up. Once they’re hot enough, all the shellfish go in. On top of that they place fern leaves (that’s what they looked to me like in my expert botany opinion).* Then more layers of Curanto goodness go on top — a layer of leaves a layer of potato cakes called Milco** and Chapalele, another layer of leaves and then layer of snap peas, probably at least a foot thick, cover the entire things, and one more layer of leaves then typical barbecue fare like cuts of beef and chorizo (spicy sausage).
The entire thing was an experience I will never forget for as long as I live. Aside from the fact that the food rocked my world, it was just so fun — probably because I wasn’t the one hauling up 2 ton bags of oysters from the beach, but hey, I took pictures! The atmosphere was perfect. Anita and Alan’s friends busted out their musical instruments and started singing typical songs — El Gorro de Lana — also known in my world as “me voy pa’ Quellon,” because those were the words that stuck in my head and I could not get it out until like…yesterday. There’s also a special Curanto song, but the only words I remember are, “Curaaaaanto, curaaaaanto,” so I’m useless 
Anyway, the musical people spontaneously started singing and playing these wonderful songs (so much better than the Youtube version) and people spontaneously started dancing Cueca.
Thanks to everyone who knew the name and correct spelling of these wonderful Curanto ingredients — the leaves are called Nalca, and the potato thingy is not Milco, it’s Milcao!
So here is the view from where we, and all the guests and the bride and groom, were camping. The guys got an early start on hauling up the seafood and the rocks for the Curanto.
I don’t know how they managed to bring all the stuff up, the hill was STEEP.
And the rocks, as they are prone to be, looked HEAVY.
Alan slept in his tux. Or didn’t sleep in his tux. Needless to say, he was still in his clothes from the night before. I hear some of the shenanigans he partook in, involved a close friend of his getting IN THE OCEAN as proof of his love for the groom. You have no idea how cold it was. But that’s just a rumor, I can’t confirm 
Oh oops, I think this should be the first day. This is supposedly a typical Chilote breakfast — more raw oysters, clams, etc. With a little bit of lemon and white wine. Straight out of the shells. I am the world’s pickiest eater, but I do make an attempt to at least try stuff. I generally hate any and all food that comes from the ocean (most things have weird texture and even if they don’t, seafood always tastes alive to me. It’s weird). But I figured, when in Chiloe, does as the Chilotes do and that if ever there would come a time for me to like seafood, it was would be there. I ate a raw oyster. And you know, I didn’t hate it. The slimy texture threw me for a loop, but the flavor was good!
I’m not going to lie, that was a big moment for me. I was very proud of myself. I swallowed and then did a victory dance.
So here, the fire is heating up and they are getting ready to lay the rocks down once it burns.
In the mean time, in the kitchen, the women were preparing the Milco and Chapalele. I can’t remember which was which, but both were basically really heavy potato pancakes and one was stuffed with pork or meat. Absolutely delicious but such a heavy food I felt like I had accidentally swallowed one of those rocks after eating it.
The women are basically grating raw potato and then they strained it out. After that I didn’t see the rest of the process.
Dancing, cueca and good music, on a view you can’t pay for, smelling the Curanto cooking. Priceless. There really are some things money can’t buy.
Everyone was taking pictures and watching the whole time. I am pretty sure that I wasn’t the only one who hadn’t seen a Curanto before.
Seafood lover’s paradise. Do you see how much that is?!?
Throwing some meat and chorizos into the mix.
Here goes the Milco and Chapelele.
And the delish peas.
Once it is all covered by leaves, then it’s covered by a big plastic tarp and left cooking for about two hours.
And when you take the tarp off two hours later, VOILA! This is how it looks cooked. The women went right in with plates and started taking everything out.
They spread the leaves over the tables and we didn’t even need plates. They just piled everything up on top and it was a foodie free for all.
Thanks Waffle! This picture was all his idea
You sucked the beans right out of the pod. Mmmmm, my mouth is water just remembering.
Here you can see the spread.
I don’t think these photos do the whole thing justice, but I have a couple videos we shot that I’ll post as soon as we’re back from our mini-mid-week vacation. Best kind of vacation there is
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- @dregonzrob, hahaha, eating wall paper, that's a new one. Dog whisperer dato coming your way :)
- @lanapuckett, when we get back I'll have to introduce you to @gabrielrodriguez, @sebamilla and @sebastiankaulen!
- @dregonzrob, you need the dog whisperer!!!
- Brian McBride is announcing his retirement from the game today. He will go down in history for me as my favorite U.S. player ever. LOVE him.
- Caroline and Tommy should probably stop being this hot or somebody's going to catch on fire. http://tinyurl.com/2feozcy
- Writing w/ @imnotobsessed tomorrow early! Love catching people up on their daily dose of gossip and I <3 @inosherry, my online co-worker :)
Wow, Kyle, I can't believe how flipping fantastic this wedding sounded. The next time you have a wedding in Chiloe, I want to second (third?) shoot for you! OK, so that'd mean a…24 hour plane journey involving probably 3 changes of airline, but I think it'd be worth it!
Comment by elizaclaire — February 16, 2010 @ 3:44 pm
Wow! I've seen something slightly similar done in cape cod – not nearly as cool though.
I have a question for you. One of the things that has kind of prevented me from wanting to travel around South America is that I am a strict vegetarian. I don't really want to eat veggies that have been near meat. Are there many vegetarians in Chile? Would I survive Kyle?
Comment by Decoybetty — February 16, 2010 @ 6:35 pm
omg, what an amazing time you must have had there! i thoroughly enjoyed reading this post and learning a bit about the culture in chiloe – and obviously, your awesome photos made it look even more incredible!
Comment by lindsaypunk — February 16, 2010 @ 6:36 pm
I loved reading / seeing all about this Curanto adventure. I am totally jealous. And I am totally proud of you for eating a raw oyster. I have to admit that I have never eaten one myself. Now, if only you'd try cheese! This post has made me ravenous! Right now I'd settle for a simple Chilean asado!
Comment by Ritamae39 — February 16, 2010 @ 7:10 pm
Kyle, I can help with the name of the leaves used in the curanto. They're from a plant called nalca.
Everything looks insanely yummy. My stomach is growling – never mind that it's 1am.
Comment by Katie Alley — February 16, 2010 @ 8:10 pm
That´s right, those were nalca leaves. Nalca also tastes good, with some salt. I knew you would like Chiloe, I guess that if someone thinks that hates Chile, he or she should try a curanto like that in the south, with some friends.
People behave different outside Santiago.
Comment by I_Marmo_I — February 16, 2010 @ 8:32 pm
A quick correction, it's milcao, not milco. And those leaves, as has been commented, are nalca, which are actually giants from the rhubarb family.
Ain't Chiloé gorgeous? I think I may head down to Castro on Sunday for big Feria Costumbrista (a cultural fair of sorts). It's only a few hours away…
Comment by Gabriel M. Ortega — February 17, 2010 @ 5:20 am
Hi! Just ran across your blog and fell in love with your photos right off the bat! Makes you feel like you were there, plus they make me smile. Keep up the good work, I'll be checking back again! Cheers!
Comment by Aly — February 17, 2010 @ 7:52 pm
YES! That long of a plane ride would be a small sacrifice to make in order to be a part of this wedding. AMAZING.
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:29 pm
You would make it…the bad thing is that people are obsessed with meat. The good thing is that there is an overabundance of cheap fresh fruits and veggies. I mean, you'd obviously not have a TON of options eating out and what not, but honestly, I don't eat much meat and I do just fine.
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:30 pm
If you ever get the chance, you MUST visit Lindsay!!!
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:31 pm
Mom, I have tried cheese. All the time! My life would be so much easier if I liked it!
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:31 pm
Thank you for the help, I will update the post! Is Nalca the word in English or in Spanish?
Nevermind, my lazy ass can look that up
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:32 pm
Dude, no one told me you could eat the leaves too or I would've been all over that!
And yes, I would highly recommend any gringa hating life in Chile to go to a curanto in Chiloe. It is a good way to fall in love with Chilean culture.
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:32 pm
Thanks Gabriel, I will update the post!
I am jealous that you now live right next door to Chiloe. If I were you I think I'd be there every weekend.
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:33 pm
Thank you Aly! Taking these pictures made me smile, it was a pretty awesome experience!
Comment by kyleracine — February 19, 2010 @ 5:33 pm
YES! That long of a plane ride would be a small sacrifice to make in order to be a part of this wedding. AMAZING.
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:29 am
You would make it…the bad thing is that people are obsessed with meat. The good thing is that there is an overabundance of cheap fresh fruits and veggies. I mean, you'd obviously not have a TON of options eating out and what not, but honestly, I don't eat much meat and I do just fine.
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:30 am
If you ever get the chance, you MUST visit Lindsay!!!
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:31 am
Mom, I have tried cheese. All the time! My life would be so much easier if I liked it!
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:31 am
Thank you for the help, I will update the post! Is Nalca the word in English or in Spanish?
Nevermind, my lazy ass can look that up
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:32 am
Dude, no one told me you could eat the leaves too or I would've been all over that!
And yes, I would highly recommend any gringa hating life in Chile to go to a curanto in Chiloe. It is a good way to fall in love with Chilean culture.
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:32 am
Thanks Gabriel, I will update the post!
I am jealous that you now live right next door to Chiloe. If I were you I think I'd be there every weekend.
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:33 am
Thank you Aly! Taking these pictures made me smile, it was a pretty awesome experience!
Comment by kyleracine — February 20, 2010 @ 1:33 am
[...] that wasn’t all. Day 3 of the celebration consisted of a Chilean Curanto ( a massive beach BBQ!) Go check out these photographs [...]
Pingback by Rock 'n Roll Bride · With a Little Help From Our Friends…{Part 2} — March 17, 2010 @ 11:08 am
[...] The first day, we would prepare a curanto to bless the work site. I had read about this on a Chile blog, so I was very honored and excited to get to experience this feast on our trip to Rapa [...]
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