Fotografo de Bodas, Santiago

May 12, 2010

First things first — if you’re the Gringo male who doesn’t speak Spanish and called my house in Chile this afternoon, but didn’t understand the nana, I’m not in Chile at the moment. Email me, because I have no idea who it is that called!

So yesterday I posted the beginning of some of the pictures of the Amazon cruise we went on with Delfin. Still can’t believe we won.

Each morning we woke up to an insanely beautiful view. Even though it looked pretty much the same every day (lush green trees, muddy brown water, blue/grey skies threatening to rain) this never got old.

Every night while we slept, the big boat we were on sailed (traveled, swam, boated? What is the proper verb for a boat in motion?). When we woke up, we’d be anchored somewhere and ready to go out on our small boats for the daily excursions.

And yes. It was hot. It was really fricken hot. So fricken hot that my curly hair came back.

And Seba fanned himself like a lady.

The first couple excursions were all bird/animal watching. I really don’t have any good pictures because we don’t own a long enough lens (aka, enough zoom to actually be able to make out the animals in the pictures). If I had known we were going I would have bought one when we were in the U.S. but since we won the trip, it was last minute planning and we didn’t go prepared. Fortunately Seba’s dad had really great binoculars that we borrowed, so we were able to see the wildlife really well but I have nothing to show for it!

I guess I’ll just tell you then — we saw three towed sloths, macaws (colorful parrots, like the kind that pirates have that talk when they’re in captivity), piranhas, monkeys (big howler monkeys that were sort of evil looking, and then little small cute monkeys called Frailes that were everywhere), baby caymans (similar to alligators), pink dolphins, which looks SO weird and prehistoric I felt like time had just been rewound ten thousand years, grey dolphins, and a million other kinds of cool looking birds.

What I do have pictures of though, are the expeditions we did on foot to visit some Ribereño villages. Our guides translated Ribereno as “River People,” and told us that in the Amazon jungle, 23 million people live there. Of those 21 million are Riberenos, who lives along the edges of the main river and have regular contact with Western civilization. These people sell fish and other produce and use their money to buy salt, gasoline for their little boats and matches to make their fires. The kids go to elementary school and almost all of them speak Spanish. Then there 1 million people called “Nativos,” or Natives, who have contact about once a year with the Western world, but maintain their own way of dress, only eat food from that they hunt, fish or gather and live on the banks of the tributaries to the main rivers. After that comes the very small group of “Indigenas,” or Indigenous people, who live in the jungle itself, not along the water. We apparently know very little about them because if the come into contact with people from the Western world they’ll either run, or shoot you with a poisonous blow dart to kill you (so your germs don’t kill them first). They don’t use fires, so they eat all their food raw.

I have to say that I was shocked by how many people we came across! I had no idea there were so many people living in the Amazon. And we did go fairly far in. We flew to Iquitos then drove about an hour and a half to the boat in Nauta, Peru, and then from there the boat traveled over 100 miles in during the five days we were on it. We’d be boating down the river and cross all kinds of RibereÃ±os in their own little boats, or sitting on the shore fishing and swimming. We were the only big boat though.

Like I said, we went to see some Riberenos villages.

I’ll be the first to admit that this kind of tourism is very strange to me. I will also say that I’m incredibly happy we went. But I did feel weird just walking around and observing them during their day to day activities. They’re not monkeys in a zoo, they’re people! I tried to make conversation with them in an effort to feel less like they were people on display and more like they’re actual humans, but most of them were really shy.

The good thing is that Delfin is a responsible company and the reason that they take their tourists to visit these towns is to support people of the area. They pay the villages for the visit so that the villages can buy books and other materials for their schools.

This school even had solar power!

And the teacher of the school said he was glad that the tourists come so that the kids have interaction with people outside their town and get a grasp on how big the world is and that people come from all over to see their little piece of it in the Amazon.

The kids typically get married and start having children when they’re around 16 or 17. The entire village supports them and helps them build a house — and I use that term lightly. The houses consist of a raised floor in order to be off the ground when the water rises, and a roof so they don’t get wet, but has no walls.

The kids loved having their picture taken and seeing it afterward. I wish they had email so I could send them their photos

Like I said, I did feel weird, and I wish the adults would have been willing to talk a little more with us (although I understand why they didn’t) so I didn’t feel like such an observer. But it was still really cool to see how they live and I was happy that even though it was rainy season we were able to set foot on dry land. Good thing the boat gave us boots, because I only brought my tennis shoes!

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24 Comments

Haha, I love how you're always telling me that I look so chic when I travel, when you look just as chic! Love those sunnies & the black/white combo girl!!! You know, I talked a little about how strange I felt going on the Amazon tours as well. Part of you is so eager to learn about this new, fascinating culture and the other part of you feels like you're totally intruding. It would be so strange if a group of tourist walked into my home and started taking pictures of me, haha.

Comment by GlobalButterfly — May 13, 2010 @ 12:36 pm

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I would be really uncomfortable to observe people like that, too. I mean I'm a people-watcher by nature, but they never know I'm watching from afar. Geez, that sounds stalkerish, eh? lol

I can only imagine how incredible the whole trip was!

I agree, you are looking very chic.

Comment by capturinglife — May 13, 2010 @ 1:00 pm

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I think I have a picture in the Ecuadorian jungle where I'm dressed just like you are! Tight pants, long sleeved shirt and THE BOOTS, God bless them for keeping night snakes away from my precious feet, or so I was told, hahaha.
I too felt strange, like invading jungle people's world and habitat, but I suppose if they ever go to the “towns” they do the same, only they are overlooked because there are so many other tourists as well.
Love the picture with the clouds and someone's toes!

Comment by Florencia — May 13, 2010 @ 1:03 pm

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I went to on a trip in 1998 along the Orinoco River in Venezuela – cruising with a boat along the Amazon just like you. It was a long trip and we would camp further inside the forest and go for long hikes and excursions (in this suffocating heat!). We went up the whole river until we got out to the sea and the trip ended in Trinidad and Tobago. A lot of what you write brings me back to this trip 12 years ago: the peacefulness and the beauty of the scenery that you could watch for hours without tiring, the heavy air, the unbelievable humidity and heat… We did not go to any traditional villages though I could see the indian fisherman on the river in their “very light” traditional clothing.
On another subject, the kids are super cute, and you look really chic and in shape… Seba and you are an adorable couple!

Comment by vanessa2010 — May 13, 2010 @ 3:51 pm

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Wow. I did not know there were THAT many people living in the amazon!!! I think itÂ´s so cool that there are still people living deep in the jungle that have almost no contact with the Western world and have been living the same way for thousands of years. I really hope Brazil and Peru donÂ´t do anything stupid like wipe out the entire Amazon one day and destroy the lives of all these amazing tribes living peacefully in the Amazon.

Comment by gringagonesouth — May 13, 2010 @ 4:20 pm

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Yeah I didn't know there were so many people living in the amazon either! Cool! And the kids are so adorable.

Comment by kristyleaperkins — May 13, 2010 @ 5:48 pm

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Wow Kyle! This trip just looks so amazing. I love the pictures of the little kids. I know you said you wish they had email to send them to them, but what about printing them out and mailing them to Delfin to take with them on their next cruise? I know it is kind of a long shot, especially since you won't be able to personally give them to the kids, but still, I am sure they would appreciate it. Hope all is well in the US!

Comment by Tyffanie — May 13, 2010 @ 6:08 pm

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Lovely pictures as always, Kyle. What a wonderful experience, and how fortunate that you were able to document your good fortune so thoroughly and skillfully.

Oh yeah, I think you were looking for “floated” or “glided” ha ha ha.

Comment by Gina Fernandez — May 14, 2010 @ 12:44 am

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La primera foto es ESPECTACULAR, no digo q las demÃ¡s no lo sean, solo que AMO las nubes de ahi, y que se vean tus pies te da esa misma sensasiÃ³n de estar ahi tirado en la cama viendo ese maravilloso paisaje, increible!
Excelentes Fotos Kyle, como siempre. Un abrazo!

Comment by Loquenoves — May 14, 2010 @ 4:31 pm

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Hey K, you should have asked me, i have a bunch of high power (300-800mm) fast L glass you could have borrowed…looks like a real nice time you had thanks for sharing
Gardner

Comment by weddingphotochile — May 14, 2010 @ 8:37 pm

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It looks like such an amazing place, I love every single picture. You guys are so lucky! And you look cute in wellies by the way

Comment by AnnaLondon — May 14, 2010 @ 10:22 pm

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What an incredible opportunity to experience a corner of the globe that most people have only seen on the Discovery Channel! Your photos make me feel like I'm there with you. Thanks for documenting your incredible trip for us!

P.S. Must find a way to win a free Amazon cruise…

Comment by Katie — May 19, 2010 @ 2:31 pm

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Must find a way to win another free Amazon cruise! I am already dying to go back!!

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:30 pm

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It was absolutely incredible, if you ever have the chance you should go!!!

And thanks, I'm thinking of investing in a pair of my own

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:30 pm

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Ahhhh, veo esa foto y me llena de ganas de estar de vuelta en el barco…

Bueno algun dia, ahorrare mi plata y ire de nuevo

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:31 pm

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Yes, floated is the right word! I forget how to speak English sometimes. You'll have to forgive me if things come out wrong when we meet in July!

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:31 pm

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That's actually a really, really good idea Tyffanie! I am totally going to do that as soon as we get back to Chile! You're so resourceful.

See you in a few weeks!

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:32 pm

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Kind of insane, right? I think of the Amazon as this totally unpopulated, untamable wild jungle!

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:32 pm

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I know, I hope the same thing. It worries me that the Amazon is going to be totally destroyed with the way that humans destroy nature

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:33 pm

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Ahhhh, that trip sounds AMAZING! If we ever get the chance to head out to Venezuela we will totally have to contact you to find out more about it and if that kind of thing still exists.

And thanks, you made my day! I felt like I gained twenty pounds eating all the delicious Amazon food, but even if I did…it was worth it

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:34 pm

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LOL, Flo, I want to see the picture of you, snake free of course

And those little toes are mine!

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:35 pm

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It was definitely strange to be people watching them in their houses. I mean, on one hand the houses didn't have walls. But they were going about their day to day business as if they were inside the privacy of their own home. It felt weird.

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:35 pm

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Thanks!

And I definitely did the same as you, and put myself in the opposite position of if people were coming to watch me and take picture of me just doing my thing…and I did not like it. I asked a couple people if they minded and they said no, not at all, but of course that's what they're going to tell me!

Comment by kylehepp — May 21, 2010 @ 5:36 pm

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I love these pics! Your Peruvian trip looked like a lot of fun and adventure.

Comment by Chgnad — June 16, 2010 @ 2:14 pm

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